After a hearty breakfast of bacon egg and cheese butties, we all headed off with a lot of excitement a healthy amount of psyche for all the routes we had seen the day previous.
On entering the venue cliff and richly got stuck into bullen, a WI 3 fat waterfall, I headed of up the right hand side of this fall on a route we dubbed scotch corner as it reminded us all of a route you may find I Scotland, it started as a nice ice ramp and in a gully like formation from half height which took you out into the trees to finish.
We then headed down to the far left end and got stuck into the large, steep independent icicles hanging from the rocky cave.
Edward led the first of the icicles which started on a free hanging formation, led onto a ramp and then onto a steep top section, this route wasn't in the guide as the shear amount of ice this year had made additional formations.
Cliff led the second of the icicles which the lower 3/4 had broken off but wedged its self against the rock face behind , which made a great technically challenging transition from the lower part to the fix upper section. Cliff stuck in a few heel hooks and breezed his was to the top of the section.
I then went on to led a wide but excessively thin and delicate route were a campus move and light foot placements made the start of the route accessible and from there tentative axe hooks and controlled footwork got me to the top of the icicle, once there it was a case of shovelling of deep snow and hacking up a very rotten and brittle ramp to a stance in a corner where I finished the final section up large runneled awkward ice over a bulge and through deep snow t the safety of the belay.
Once ed had seconded up we went to the next fat route to the left of us and ed led the next route, after that went wanted to finish of on the classic line of jomfrua which ed led onto the belay stance and then I follow to which cliff turned up and wanted a slice of the action, so I climbed up and led through the second pitch and to the top to set up a belay to bring the two of them up.
Ed was halfway up and cliff at the base so I decided to bring them both up at the same time, to which it was a similar experience to crab fishing, I was fighting with two people climbing at two different speeds and I couldn't see one of the until he came over the bulge, so I had to watch ed climb and feel the other line for the tension dropping so it knew when cliff was moving and to pull the rope in. I won't be doing this again, to much hassle.
Once down we all headed back to the hytteby for mackerel, pasta crisps and whiskey. Another awesome day had and tomorrow will hopefully be another great day out.
Check the video on YouTube http://youtu.be/76e5gr8qn-4
No comments:
Post a Comment